Around Abbotabad

 
Abbottabad is a favoured summer destination for rest and relaxation; for locals on the run from the sweltering heat in summer all over the country; for foreigners in the capital city Islamabad who want to chill out on weekends, and hard core travellers on way to picturesque Northern Pakistan and beyond to China. But one does not have to wait for any season to go to Abbottabad. You can enjoy there any time round the year! [Above is a view of the beautiful Piffer’s mosque in  Abbotabad Cantonment].
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ABBOTTABAD, THE CITY OF PINE HILLS 

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by S. A. J. Shirazi

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Note for WoP readers: Abbotabad is a city that has always attracted me as a small, cool and a refreshing resort nestled in the lushgreen mountains. Contrary to Murree which being on a relatively good height [above the mean sea level] offers most of the time, a really cool weather in peak summer months, Abbotabad has relatively mild climate, a climate that sometimes requires even a room air conditioner in summers. But in spite of this, the city has its own charm. I always find its maple lined trees, its cool avenues and its highly disciplined cantonment the places where you can wander for hours and still don’t get tired.

But of late Abbotabad has shot into a fame which thanks to the mainstream media in the west touches connotations of almost notoriety. Apart from what the MSM says in this regard, I wonder till this day, how come this man [if at all he was the real Osama bin Laden] who was shot by the US Navy SEALS] decided to settle in this city when he could have found a more hospitable and more cooperative environ there in the borderlands we call FATA. [Not that the people here are less hospitable, but by and large the people in Hazara and Kohistan are not as conservative and hardliners as they are there in the tribal territories, some of whom are fighting against the state of Pakistan]. They are the people who along with great Pakistani patriots, the valiant Pakhtuns, have amongst them some renegades too who do not believe in the nation state of Pakistan and are fighting a futile war for an Islam that the majority of the people in this country do not find cohesive with what they believe and therefore find their ideas unacceptable. But anyway, politics apart, Abbotabad is a city which offers everything to everybody.

Here in this piece, writer S. A. J. Shirazri covers the city of peace loving Hazarawals, a  city that opens its arms to all who come here, it then guides them to beautiful valleys like Kaghan, Gilgit-Baltistan and above all welcomes those adventure minded souls who intend to scale world’s highest and the mightiest, the most dangerous peaks on surface of this earth.

As an epilogue, here is a poem that is reported to have been written by Major James Abbott the founder of the city who fell in love with its rolling hills, its awe inspiring views and its thickly forested locale that he termed it as little England of East and jotted down a mystical, lyrical love poem.

So wrote Major (later General, Sir) James Abbott:

I remember the day when I first came here
And smelt the sweet Abbottabad air
The trees and ground covered with snow
Gave us indeed a brilliant white glow
To me place seemed like a dream
And far ran a lonesome stream
The wind hissed as if welcoming us
The pine swayed creating a lot of fuss
And the tiny cuckoo sang it away
A song very melodious and gay
I adored the place from the first sight
And was happy that my coming here was right
And eight good years here passed very soon
And we leave our perhaps on a sunny day
Oh! Abbottabad we are leaving you now
To your natural beauty do I bow
Perhaps your wind’s sound will never reach my ear
My gift for you is a tear
I bid you farewell with a heavy heart
Never from my mind will you memories thwart

[Nayyar]

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AROUND ABBOTTABAD

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Located north of Islamabad, Abbottabad is a town surrounded by lofty peaks and pine scented air. Among Pakistan’s towns and cities, Abbottabad –- small, neat, clean and in a spacious valley — is a rarity. Apart from being famous for its educational institutions and Pakistan Military Academy, Abbottabad also serves as the gateway to some most stunning sites in Pakistan.

The beautiful Ilyasi Mosque in Abbotabad. Its constructed over a spring that turns out fresh mineral water, 24 houtrs a day, 7 days in a week, an endless source of water for people of  the city of pines.

While other hill stations are deserted during winter this place has visitors due to its bracing weather all year around. The town has beautiful gardens and tall tree lined roads: splendid stretches of turf with plenty of room for polo, football, hockey and golf.

At 1,250 meters above sea level, Abbottabad lies below the lush pines of the Murree Hills. The importance of the town has been diminished a little after the completion of Karakorum Highway because, in the past, the only track available to reach Karakorum was through Babusar Pass, which in its turn could only be approached through Abbottabad. In spite of this development, it continues to be a transit town for those who want to venture to Northern Areas of Pakistan. Abbottabad is the junction point from where one can go to places like Hunza, Gilgit, Skardu and Indus-Kohistan of the Karakorum Range.

One can also reach from here to Swat, Dir and Chitral of the Hindukush Range or can approach to Naran, Lake Saif-ul-Muluk, Shogran and Babusar Pass of the Himalayan Range. Neelum, Lipa and Jhelum Valleys are also connected through Abbottabad. It is where the hills start.

A Chinar laden road side in Abbottabad

Coins of the Greco-Bectrians kings discovered from the Hazara tract suggest that the area was inhabited in first century B.C. But the Abbottabad town was founded in 1853 by James Abbott (hence the name), who was the first Deputy Commissioner of Hazara – the district right up to its conversion into a division in 1976.

In October 1976, Tehsil Mansehra was given the status of a full fledged district, it consisted of Mansehra and Batagram Tehsils. Subsequently in July 1991, Haripur Tehsil was separated from Abbottabad and made a district too. Thus only the Tehsil Abbottabad remained, which was declared as district.

A stunning shot of PMA Gym, Kakul

Abbott James was one of those upper crust Englishmen who helped manage Britain’s vast domain. He studied the local conditions, customs, traditions, history and habits. After a lifetime spent travelling around the hills and valleys of Hazara, there seems nothing about the district that he did not get acquainted with. Which is why he knew the district and its people deeply and thoroughly? Aside from being efficient administrator, he was a keen observer and researcher, linguist, archaeologist, historian, botanist and town planner. Abbott‘s tour reports, still preserved in India Office Library London are a valuable reservoir of knowledge for those interested to know about the area.

After independence in 1947, the town became a place for seeking knowledge. Now it is a home to prestigious institutions of learning: the Ayub Medical College, Burn Hall School, and Abbottabad Public School. Ten miles up from Abbottabad is a teaching hospital. Nearby Kakul has the Pakistan Military Academy (one of the best rated military training institutions in the world giving training to cadet officers from many countries in addition to Pakistan) and the School of Music. Before independence, Albert Victor Unaided High School and a Municipal Anglo-Vernacular High School were good educational institution in the town.

Side view of Abbotabad Hockey ground

The Cantonment area of Abbottabad gives old look. European type huge bungalows, the club, the church and the British cemetery are still there. The town presents every graduation of scenery, altitude and climate. I caught my first glimpse of Abbottabad in early march when I travelled up to Havalian by train and further ahead to the town by a Ford Wagon. Now comfortable flying coaches commute between Rawalpindi-Islamabad and Abbottabad.

Spring in Abbottabad is for the most part lovely time. Clouds fly about low in the sky, playing hide and seek with the hills. There is a nip in the air, with frosty mornings and chilly evenings. The lush green countryside is at its best after weeks of winter rains. New leaves are budding into the light, and the blossoms are out in all their glory — apricot, pear, peach, plum and apple. I ate the world’s most delicious plums from the orchards around Abbottabad.

During my two years stay in town and permanent association thereafter, I have come to know Abbottabad and its environs. It still is a clean little town, as pretty as a picture postcard. On weekends, young and smart gentlemen cadets from the Military Academy, dressed in similar attire, throng the shady streets lined with humble shops. Clusters of houses are widely scattered along hill contours that give a sense of openness. On a clear day one can see right across the valley from the town to Thandiani and beyond and if listening carefully, one could hear the pipe or brass bands playing melodious tunes in the School of Music or some instructor shouting drill orders at the top of his voice. More people are seen walking. There are fewer vehicles on the roads. The town has no high-rise buildings and dazzling plazas, and of course there seems to be no hurry.

The famous Ghorha Chowk [Horse Cross] of Abbotbad

The panorama starts changing after crossing Haripur. Environment is tranquil, pollution free and quiet. One finds countless attractions spread around the town. There are meadows here and there, grassy stretches, wild flowers and walking tracks. Go for climbing, trekking, rock repelling or explore Thandiani or Shinkiari valleys. Further north; go to the black mountain near Oghi or to see the Asokan inscriptions on boulders near base of Bareri Hill close to Mansehra. Or just sit on top of a hillock overlooking Ilyasi Mosque and count yourself lucky for being there.

While the entire valley is breathtaking in its splendour and beauty, one of my most enduring memories is watching the sunrise over snow clad Thandiani -– meaning cold in the local language -— in winters. It is a small plateau surrounded by pine forests. The drive to Thandiani from Abbottabad is one with lovely views on both sides of the road. There are some most beautiful glades on the way to Thandiani. The road rises gradually above Abbottabad. In the past, on the way to Thandiani, along with tall majestic pine trees you came across groups of monkeys. Their population is dwindling now.

Thandiani offers lush green lovely sight. Small colourful flowers bloom here and there. It looks like someone has covered the mountains with green velvet layers and the flowing water channels increase many fold its splendour and majesty. Every scene is lovely on its own. At night the lights of Abbottabad and Azad Kashmir are clearly visible. To the east beyond the Kunhar River may be seen the snow covered mountain ranges of Kashmir, to the North and North East, the mountains of Kohistan and Kaghan are sighted, and to the North West are the snowy ranges of Swat and Chitral. A well defined and common walking trail leads from Thandiani to Murree through well wooded and attractive country (with an overnight stay in the way). In this very touristy area, apart from spectacular sights what one comes across are kindnesses from any thing but ordinary people of the area. It was while walking on this route that a local who courteously walked some distance with me once told, “Keep a lemon and suck on it while walking hard and long in hills. It gives strength and quenches thrust. And, Tire the mountain not yourself.” I realize the folk wisdom in the advices every time I walk.

More adventurous can back pack their provisions and take a long but beautiful walk on off the road track to Hasan Abdal. In the way, have tea at lonely railway station Sarae Saleh. By the time you reach there, it will taste the best. On the way, you will sure come across Cadets from Pakistan Military Academy walking in files with heavy rucksacks engaged in outdoor training exercises. On this route, also look for a peculiar board hanging on the parameter fence of Golden Apple orchard near Haripur that reads, “Greedily looking on the fruit is prohibited.” What is the harm in looking at fresh fruit from across the fence? I keep wondering since I first saw it.

Abbottabad has been a favoured summer destination for rest and relaxation; for locals on the run from the sweltering heat in summer all over the country; for foreigners in the capital city Islamabad who want to chill out on weekends, and hard core travellers on way to picturesque Northern Pakistan and beyond to China. But one does not have to wait for any season to go to Abbottabad. You can enjoy there any time
round the year!

S A J Shirazi is a Lahore based writer, blogger and speaker. Shirazi has authored two books (Izhar, Ret Pe Tehreer) and translated Din Mein Charagh by Abbas Khan into Light Within.

Related Post:

1. Reach to the top and beyond
Images: on top [title image]  downwards Image 2, Image 3, Image 4

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4 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. Abbotabad needs to be renamed after that historic event that took place in this beautiful city on the morning of May 2, 2011.

  2. this is really great,,, i really liked ur blog

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